IADS Press Release: Men's fashion 2024

In Menswear, while casualwear remains a driving force fuelled by the introduction of new brands, department stores have a new secret sauce for the category: community-driven experiences.

Last January, the IADS identified that casualwear continued to lead the menswear category despite more attention given to semi-formal wear and a growing concern for pricing. Since then, department stores have refined their strategies to capture - and retain - modern male consumers' hearts. With a keen focus on community-building through pop-up stores and lifestyle events, department stores foster deeper connections with their customers by creating engaging experiences.

In comparing the past two financial exercises, the average menswear turnover share for IADS members evolved differently according to the regions: while it remained stable in North America and the Middle East (two new areas for the IADS with Bloomingdale’s and Chalhoub Group having joined in the past two years), it was more contrasted in Europe and trending slightly downwards overall, reflecting the ongoing pressure induced by continued inflation and the cost of life. Regarding price points, while the mid-range segment keeps on taking the lion’s share with 28% of sales, it is notable that luxury, affordable luxury and premium combined segments take 56% of the total sales on average. Two parallel factors can explain this:

• The continued demand for semi-formal and occasion wear, as we identified last January,
• Department stores’ elevation strategy through onboarding more sophisticated brands with higher price points and margins. While mid-range remains central to their business, many IADS members pursue premium and luxury strategies.

Finally, the entry-level segment represents a slightly decreasing but sizeable share of 16% of total sales.

In menswear, no matter the customer’s age, casualwear is for all!

IADS partner NellyRodi identified two significant trends shaping the menswear landscape that keep on blurring the border between tradition and self-expression in all customer segments:

• The resurgence of traditional craftsmanship and heritage-driven designs, with consumers favouring brands enhancing authenticity and quality.
• Boundaries are pushed away, with designers infusing humour, irony, and bold interpretations into menswear. This trend appeals to younger generations looking to break free from conventional styles and express individuality through daring and playful designs.

Strikingly, menswear is moving beyond rigid categories: customers seamlessly mix casualwear, workwear, and formal styles, breaking traditional fashion rules. Still, casualwear continues to lead the menswear departments, favoured for its effortless flexibility across different aspects of life and work. This reflects society’s preference for adaptable clothing for various occasions and a convergence towards female customers’ behaviour.

Brands: the difficult balancing between blockbusters and newcomers

NellyRodi presented its exclusive scouting of 34 up-and-coming brands, from must-haves to hidden gems, especially made for the Association’s members:

• Must have brands: Aimé Leon Dore, Lemaire, Norse Projects, Octobre Éditions, Officine Générale, Casablanca, Barbour, Faguo.
• On trends: Homme Plissé, Mfpen Hereekvipering, Pompeii Brand, Noah, Jeanerica Jeans, Le Minor, Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Helmut Lang, Walk in Paris, Encré, SAMSØE SAMSØE
• Rising brands: Magliano, Hed Mayner, Kidsuper, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Auralee, A kind of Guise, Séfr, Kartik Research.
• Hidden gems: Drapeau Noir, Kardo, Cmmn Swdn, Caleb, Rier, Aalto + Recoded, Greg Laboratory.

Carrying must-haves and big brands is not a guaranteed path to success. Some blockbusters or well-known brands have mixed results across markets due to specific fits or marketing strategies that are too different. This shows a necessary adaption to local clientele and the need for a balanced brand portfolio beyond leading brands such as Boss (a brand that successfully relaunched by simplifying its product offer), Polo Ralph Lauren, Stone Island, Moncler, Dior and Carolina Herrera, depending on markets. New brand introductions also reflect an embrace of modern, urban fashion that aligns with the steady demand for streetwear. Breuninger added Represent and Fear of God Essentials, while Tryano welcomed Homiés Marbella and Scarosso. Magasin du Nord expanded with Barons, Hugo Blue, and Mango Man. Balancing world-class names with new labels is further complicated by the direct-to-customer or retail-only strategies sometimes pursued by the latter.

Community building is a growing priority for department stores

To win over customers, especially GenZ, the emphasis is increasingly shifting toward seasonal stores and events. While not new, pop-up stores and capsules remain an unparalleled way to attract customers in-store and contribute to building communities, a key to department stores’ future. It has been the case with The Giving Movement and Sprayground at Tryano, On pop-up during the Olympics at Galeries Lafayette, Ami Paris, C.P. Company and Moose Knuckles pop-ups at Breuninger, Hugo Blue at Magasin du Nord, to name a few. Breuninger also partnered with German rap artist Rin, who attracted 10,000 fans through a Ljubav x Hugo collaboration and organised fashion talks with Stone Island and Esquire. These creative approaches allow retailers to connect more deeply with their target audience.

Besides, several department stores experiment with outdoor-related initiatives to foster deeper customer connections. A notable trend in community engagement is the focus on running, which has successfully created loyal customer bases, especially among the male customer base. Breuninger has partnered with brands like On to host weekly running events, attracting customers who value health and fitness. These events drive foot traffic while reinforcing brand loyalty through lifestyle community activities. Cycling clubs have also emerged as a growing trend, particularly in urban markets like Copenhagen. Magasin du Nord has tapped into this trend, noting that while niche, it’s gaining traction among outdoor enthusiasts and urban dwellers.

Despite a slight decline in turnover share, the market remains dynamic, with casualwear leading the category and a growing focus on premium and luxury segments. Retailers adapt to shifting consumer preferences by refining their brand portfolios and engaging with consumers through community-building initiatives like pop-ups and events, ultimately aligning with shared values.

Read the full press release below: